Vicky In Cambodia

Visit to Malay

2012-01-25T06:01:00.000-08:00

This morning I was out of the house at dawn. It's rare for me to see my neighbours houses still locked up in the morning although one man opposite was outside taking a 'shower'. As I walked to the college I felt I should have my eyes closed as I saw people brushing their teeth and urinating against walls. All evidence of the lack of facilities in many khmer homes.

Arriving at work I was very glad to have my eyes open, the orange sky as the sun rose over the river at the back of the college was beautiful.

The reason for the early start was a trip northwards to Malay district on the Thai border. It's a remote area where some of our newly qualified teachers now work. There is an extreme shortage of teachers in rural areas so students who have completed Grade 9 (O'Level) are trained on condition that they go back to the villages to teach.

The Director, two trainers, Sokha and I set off in a taxi. The going was good while we were on the main road then at a place called Kone Domrey (Baby Elephant) we turned left. Immediately the situation changed. It rained a lot last night and the road had no tarmac so was very muddy. The taxi slithered along. Fortunately there wasn't a lot of other traffic, I felt very sorry for the heavily laden motorbikes and cyclists we passed. Then the road got worse, huge holes meant the driver had to veer from side to side making it awkward if something was coming the opposite way. Things got tricky when the road also narrowed and a truck got stuck in the mud blocking our way. The poor passengers had to get out, ankle deep, and push. We were on our way again - but not for long - there were signs of oveheating from under our bonnet. Not a good place to be stuck. One of my colleagues looked around and remarked that no amount of money could help if you were hungry as there was nowhere to buy food or water, nothing but land as far as the eye could see. A few minutes of fiddling with the engine and a piece of red skutt (sticky tape) later and the car had a new lease of life. We arrived at the first school with no further problems.

Sokha and I were dropped off here whilst the rest went on to other schools. It was playtime and children were happily engaged in a range of activities such as high jump (over a length of elastic) and marbles. We were met by the headmaster and a very nervous NQT. After interviewing them, I observed a Maths lesson with Year 2. It started well with revision using small chalkboards. And that was it! The children spent the rest of the lesson copying the date, subject and lesson objective from the board! Some of the poor kids could barely write. The objective was to multiply single digit numbers by 10 but it never happened. Giving feedback was very difficult but I hope I managed to provide some good advice. Poor Sokha was having to write very quickly to translate what I'd written. I must admit to being very disappointed as I observed better lessons during 1st year Teaching Practice.

The taxi returned to take us back to the group for lunch. It was terrible to see the state of one of the other schools. Huge portions were missing from the roof, shutters were hanging off the windows and the floor was full of craters. A very difficult situation to teach in but the children all had smiles on their faces.

In the afternoon we all set off for the final school where there were two NQTs. This school had a lovely atmosphere and children somehow seemed more confident. Luckily for me I observed another Maths lesson, they're easier for me to follow. This time it was subtraction but again, a good start led to nothing although this was a bit better than the previous lesson. Most children got the question wrong in their books -yes, there was just one. My colleague helped give the feedback this time, I was glad to be working together as it meant she was also aware of what I had observed.

The hot sun had dried up the road so our journey back was much easier. I am actually glad I experienced the muddy road though, as it made me more aware of the real situation. I asked if the road had been passable during the rainy season and was told yes - but the water would have come up to the seats inside the car - much like when I went to Banteay Chmar. In Britain that would have meant the road was not passable.

The real work starts now as we analyse what we learnt today and discuss ways to prepare trainees better in the future. Another visit is planned to the same teachers to try to support them further.

Happy New Year

2012-01-22T01:11:00.000-08:00

I've just spent an amazing couple ofhours celebrating Chinese New Year with a family I had never metbefore!

I was feeling a bit low when I went outas electricity had been off all morning and that means no runningwater too. My spirits were soon lifted.

Here in Cambodia most things happenoutdoors and everyone can see what's going on. As I was passing ahouse I stopped to watch the children drumming and dancing in a dragon costume.Their grandfather was burning brightly coloured and shiny paper as anoffering to the ancestors. Once the offering was complete I wasinvited to step inside the house as they lit the firecrackers –lots of crackling followed by a loud explosion. A lovely young manthen demonstrated that he speaks English by asking me to eat withthem.

I felt very comfortable joining them.The lady of the house told me she had 9 children, of whom 5 werepresent along with some of her grandchildren. I think she'd prepared enough food for all of them, it was areal feast. Chicken, duck, pork, black mushrooms and a huge varietyof vegetables with noodles and, of course, rice.

Throughout the meal, people came, had a drink, and left. The children didn't eat with us. They played scissors, stone, paper or drummed and danced around. Conversation revolved around family members, a forthcoming wedding and was interrupted many times by a call for 'Cheers!'

As I was leaving, Madai begged me to wait while she prepared me a bag of fruit - as if she hadn't given me enough. I was overwhelmed by the generosity of this family. My fridge is already well stocked with fruit so on my way home I passed by the college where I knew I would find grateful recipients.

To finish things off perfectly, the electricity was back when I returned.

This was my second welcoming of the New Year. I spent our New Year at a party in Siem Reap - a more riotous affair than today. So whether International or Chinese, I'd like to wish you a

Happy New Year

Christmas in Cambodia

2011-12-24T03:03:00.000-08:00

Tree at Petrol Station in Sisophon

Almost everyone in Cambodia is Buddhist so I wasn't sure what to expect of Christmas. There are many Bank Holidays on the Khmer calendar but Christmas Day is not one of them. On a recent visit to Phnom Penh there were lights, Christmas trees and greetings in many of the shops but here in Sisophon there is little sign. It's a busy time at the college. New 1st years only arrived at the beginning of December so I decided not to take any holiday but to experience the season here. I am so glad I did. On Thursday, 2nd year trainees had their annual volleyball tournament. Afterwards, as a welcome to the new trainees, they held a party. Food was cooked on their very basic facilities and tasted delicious.

Frying Fish

Cheers!

Washing Up

Dancing followed and I was again invited to lead the first dance. Most songs seem to have their own steps and hand movements but there was a scattering of disco type tracks where anything was acceptable. I was struck by the huge number of young people who joined in, only a few sat and watched. And this without alcohol!

On Friday evening I was invited to a Christmas Party at a local English school. When Vichet said there might be around 100 students I wondered where he was going to put them but he has a big space out the back. Being able to hold events outdoors is a real bonus.Wim and I were Guests of Honour although in fact it was an honour to have been invited. After the food we were entertained by a team of excellent dancers then there was a prize draw for the students. Everyone was very excited at the prospect of winning. Wim and I presented the prizes then found ourselves posing for photographs - a sense of what it must be like to be famous!

Christmas Eve and I was up early to go to work. I'm including this as we had a very successful lesson. As I mentioned in a previous blog, I've been supporting the trainer who teaches Resource Making. He has been drafted in without any training or resources himself and therefore feels inadequate. Today we were making a Healthy Food poster. Creating the sample was a long job for me. I found a good English one on the Internet, copied the pictures by hand, wrote the labels for Sokha to translate then had to design a suitable layout. Khmer text takes up more than twice as much space as English text to say the same thing. Explaining the rudiments of a good poster, in khmer, to the trainer was my next challenge but he's now getting used to my language (Sokha only works part time). Our first lesson didn't go as well as we hoped. The sample was small and not easily seen by trainees so I suggested that for the next class we use my laptop and the projector. This trainer is the only one in the college who has received no computer training. I set everything up to display the poster and he delivered the lesson well. We were comparing how nicely trainees were working compared to the previous class when the screen saver came on. His initial panic changed to joy when I told him to move the mouse. The next time it happened he did it without prompting and got a cheer from the class. It seems like such a small thing but was a huge step in confidence building. Next Friday I'm running a workshop for all trainers on the effective use of ICT in Teaching and Learning as only 3 trainers ever use the projector. My colleague will now feel that he has a little experience.
In the evening I went to the park where there is a fair at the moment. Sellers offer a variety of food from corn on the cob to fried frogs and crickets.

Finally I went for the best sausages in Sisophon cooked by my friend Mono.

Christmas Day. As a gift to myself I took my bicycle for a facelift. The light now works and I have a new basket. It's my primary source of transport so I must take care of it. I then went to the market. Temperature was about 20 °C and with the breeze it felt quite cool. The only sign of Christmas was in a mobile phone shop where Christmas songs were even playing - mostly in khmer. Chan Leap was there in her santa hat.

Christmas dinner wasn't quite roast turkey. Wim and I ate at a local khmer restaurant that we call Red Chairs. Pork with cabbage, the food there is always delicious. I spent a relaxing afternoon at the wedding garden with a friend walking amongst palm trees, mango trees and pineapple plants. It was interesting to hear of all the medicinal properties of the plants.
I have just returned from a Christmas party held by the teachers at another school that teaches English -lots of food and dancing. A great way to spend Christmas.

Hope you are all having a good time. Seven hours behind me you are still celebrating as I'm ready for bed.

Merry Christmas Everybody and Best Wishes for 2012

Wedding

2011-11-09T23:37:00.000-08:00

The end of the rainy season marks the beginning of the wedding season here in Cambodia. Huge wedding tents are erected, blocking streets, and loud music blasts out all day.
I attended the engagement party of one of my neighbours and last weekend the happy couple were married. The celebrations lasted two days. For me the unpleasant part was the loud music that started at 5.00 am both mornings!
On the first day, a procession bearing gifts paraded from the college to our street. The photos tell the story.


Musicians and flower bearers

Trainees in their finery joined the procession

Joints of meat carried by my colleagues

Arrival of the groom

The procession arrives in our street, the home of the bride.

Musicians

Ceremony and blessings inside the house

The following day there was a big party in a local restaurant with over 600 guests, live band and a 5 course meal. Here we finally met the bride and groom together.

Beautiful couple

Miko and myself enjoying the food

Resource Making

2011-11-09T04:41:00.000-08:00

One of my regular activities is to assist the tutor in charge of guiding trainees in the making of teaching resources. He speaks no English and was a bit wary of me at first but as soon as he realised my presence makes his job easier, he relaxed and we get along well. This is not really his area of expertise and he is grateful for all the help he can get. Working with trainees it's easy to forget that many of them have not had much experience with scissors and of making things in general. They are very enthusiastic but some need to be shown every step. It is also fortunate that VSO gave me $150 for resources in the earlier workshop and I was able to buy scissors, rulers and pens etc. Trainees are supposed to provide their own but there are never enough.


This made me laugh when I saw two trainees cutting the same piece of card from opposite ends. There were two lines and each was cutting a different line.

Finally, resources need to be covered in sticky backed plastic for protection and so that whiteboard markers can be used on them. Resources here are very vulnerable. Miko, a Japanese volunteer, came back after her holiday to find her music resources had been eaten by ants! She had thought they were safe in the staff room. The humidity can also cause things to be damp or go mouldy.

World Teachers' Day

2011-10-27T08:32:00.000-07:00

An Apple for Teacher
When I suggested to the college that we do something to celebrate World Teacher's Day, I was amazed at how excited everyone became. I had a grant of $150 for gifts, stationary and refreshments. Trainees were asked what they wanted to do and suggested letters to teachers, role play, songs and poetry. My idea of putting the letters on a tree of good wishes was accepted with enthusiasm and the trainees organised it themselves. The Director felt a banner was important so one of my neighbours painted it for us. Once up I could see that it became the focus of the room and was essential to the success of the event.

Trainees organised the whole celebration. I had a meeting with the organisers to allocate tasks. This years event was to raise awareness of the importance of women in education. With that in mind, female trainees were given leading roles. Trainers and trainees from the college as well as teachers from our practice school were invited.
We began with speeches, I made mine in english and my assistant translated for me. After that came poems, songs and a short play by the trainees. I don't know when they practised but was impressed with the quality of drama. An impromptu song from one of the trainers proved very popular. Trainees read some of the greetings from the tree and presented gifts to teachers. Trainees all received pens.
Finishing with cakes and fruit, everyone was very happy.

Teacher Training

2011-10-25T23:00:00.000-07:00

Life for me is not all travelling, I do work too.
One of the big problems in Cambodian schools is lack of teaching resources. Another is knowing how to use them. A Belgian NGO produced a reading scheme in khmer and asked VSO to assist in the training of teachers. Grade 1 and 2 teachers from the schools used by the college for Teaching Practice, were invited to a workshop. My colleagues already have experience of the materials and delivered very lively sessions. The school teachers were enthusiastic and loved the books. I particularly enjoyed the session when the teachers were asked to illustrate a scene from a story. Many of these teachers grew up during or just after Khmer Rouge and so had no experience of fun in their own education. The laughter as they worked together was very encouraging.

Flooding has made the beginning of term difficult with some schools being closed so I have been unable to follow this up and give support in the classrooms. I am looking forward to working with the children.

The Rains Came Down...

2011-10-01T07:31:00.000-07:00

For the Pchum Ben holiday, I took the opportunity to visit Mondulkiri Province in the East of Cambodia. It was beautiful - jungle and waterfalls. All the rain we've been having meant the falls were spectacular and powerful. It also made the roads very muddy and difficult to negotiate!

Bou Sraa Waterfall

Sen Mororom Waterfall

Children in traditional Pnong dress

Elephant belonging to Pnong tribesmen

...and the floods came up.

The trouble with all this rain in the highlands is that it flows to the lowlands to add to the rain that's already falling there. Right now many parts of Cambodia are suffering serious floods that have resulted in over 140 deaths and disastrous damage to rice crops. From the bus I saw houses sitting in the water, abandoned by families who set up tents by the roadside. The new school year should be starting this week but for over 900 schools this will not be possible as they are flooded.

My college is right by the river and although I have watched the water level rise steadily, we have not suffered any flooding. Work begins again on Monday and I'm looking forward to working with teachers and trainees on Khmer Literacy and Maths teaching.

Pchum Ben

2011-09-21T04:33:00.000-07:00

It's been a long time since I wrote a blog. I had a busy few weeks, started to compose, then became ill with dengue fever - an unpleasant virus spread by a mosquito. For reliable medical treatment VSO volunteers have to go to Phnom Penh so I had a long journey. Since I slept, it passed quickly. Rest is the only cure so that is what I did combined with 2 weeks more language training. I am now fully recovered.

I was away from Sisophon for 3 weeks. On my return I travelled through a landscape vastly different from the one I experienced 6 months ago. Then it was dry and barren. Now it is lush and green. The rice fields that stretch as far as the eye can see are far more amazing when you consider that they were planted and are tended by hand. Where the rivers have spilled their banks the land is flooded, there is water everywhere.

There are many work related things I would like to share but today's blog is for my ancestors.

I was invited by my neighbours to join them at the Pagoda to celebrate Pchum Ben. This is celebrated every year and is a 15 day festival. It's the time when ancestors who have not passed to the afterlife are freed to roam the earth - but only in the dark. Last night the families, especially the children, were very excited as they prepared balls of sticky rice. Some of the children decorated their container with a candle and added sweets.

Armed with rice balls, water and incense, we set off at 4.00 this morning to walk to the Pagoda. Outside, street sellers were selling sticky rice balls. It's seen as a food the spirits like and can consume easily. At the Pagoda, incense burning, we knelt as the monks said prayers. Inside, the shrine was brightly lit with coloured lights and looked beautiful. Everyone then filed out and walked round the perimeter wall throwing rice balls over the wall, placing pieces on the wall and also throwing them into prepared receptacles. Street children huddled round these containers eying the rice hungrily - a very sad sight to see - or was it? I gave two small boys a ball of rice each and it was interesting that they did not eat them but threw them as everyone else was doing.

Selling Sticky Rice


Dah praying

So I returned to my house as the sun was rising. My neighbours lit stoves to prepare huge cauldrons of food. The actual holiday for Pchum Ben is next week when the college will completely close for 3 days.

Each day I learn a little more about khmer culture. To learn more yourself you can click this link. About Pchum Ben Festival

College Outing

2011-07-06T03:49:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, to celebrate their Graduation, trainees went on a day trip to Siem Reap, a tourist resort I was about to experience in a way no tourist can. Three coaches left the college at 6.00am after baguettes for everyone. At 8.00 we stopped for breakfast, I passed on this and went for a walk round a market with some of the girls. Back on the road again, we left the busy main road and I was struck by the beauty of narrower lanes lined with banana and palm trees.

Our first stop was Kbal Spean an uphill walk, some of it a bit of a scramble, through beautiful scenery in the company of so many colourful butterflies with the sound of monkeys chattering in the trees. This was my second time to visit and I was glad that the first time we had a guide to explain the significance as this time trainees were too excited to take much notice.

At the top is a natural bridge over the river and a waterfall that will be at its best in a month or two after the rains. Carved into the rocks are images of Vishnu, Shiva and various animals – a beautiful spot for a picnic.
I was amazed by the food that materialised. Trainees formed groups and sat with containers of rice, fish, meat and veg. Some had carried cool boxes with water and beer. Ung Towrett, the Technical Director made a point of looking after me throughout the day and ensured that I had plenty to eat.

On the way down we walked by the river where those little fish that nibble your feet swim freely. It was all very relaxing and a good opportunity to practice khmer.

Next stop was Angkor Wat, my first visit to the famous temple with its impressive moat. The son of one of our tutors was assigned to be my guide as he speaks some English and has visited several times before. He did a great job pointing out special Apsaras (carvings of goddesses) and explaining what he could remember about the architecture. The heat of the afternoon was not the best time to be climbing steps and exploring but trainees were so happy and excited that I felt honoured to be sharing the experience with them.

Before heading back, it was planned that everyone would cool off with a swim in a lake but as we arrived thunder and lightning started and the heavens opened so unfortunately we missed that. It didn't kill the spirits of our trainees, they had more fun planned. Karaoke and dancing on the coach. Only one stop on the way back – at a village where they make cakes. Everyone bought big bags of the sweet, biscuit-like delicacies to take home.

Exhausted yet exhilarated by the day, I was able to join other volunteers for a drink in the evening as Alison was having her leaving party. It felt good to be able to talk in English!

Workshop

2011-06-29T09:30:00.000-07:00

I was asked to give a talk to 2nd yr students to prepare them for their teaching posts. Next question was 'half day or full day?!' Since a half day is almost 4 hours I opted for that to break myself in gently and planned a practical workshop to promote and demonstrate the use of simple, inexpensive teaching tools. It was my first time working through a translator so was quite strange. I prepared almost every word beforehand so that I could read each sentence for Sokha to translate. It's funny that it seems to take twice as long to say something in khmer as to say the same thing in English.

I don't know how long it took to get the cane out of Cambodian classrooms under the Child Friendly Schools Initiative but it took me only a few minutes to re-introduce it. The college Director was very impressed by the simplicity and effectiveness of my bamboo counting stick. I was addressing trainees who will be taking up jobs in rural areas where they have very few resources and no budget. I had asked Sokha where I could buy one and he laughed – 'Buy? They just grow!' By the end of the workshop they had all made a Target Board, Dart Board, Dice or other maths resource to take with them as well as ideas on how they can be used. You can see from the photos that they weren't working under the most comfortable of conditions.

The end of Teaching Practice gave me the opportunity to get to know some of the first year trainees I've been helping as I was invited to the parties. There were speeches (including one from me!), food and finally Karaoke and dancing. Food varies. Some is very tasty, some not so tasty and some I just can't touch!! Intestines are a favourite with khmer people. My first attempt at Khmer dancing was fun after the initial shock. I heard my name being announced and realised I was being asked to start the dancing with the head teacher! It's quite slow, you dance with a partner and there are set steps that are quite easy to pick up. The problem is coordinating your feet with the hand movements. I found it difficult to get them both right at the same time! The etiquette is a bit like ballroom dancing, I had no sooner sat down after one dance when I was politely requested to dance with someone else. Just as well movements are slow as it was very hot.

Speeches at sereisophon Primary School

Cambodian dance at Sereisophon

With teachers from Kampong Swai Primary School

Dancing with trainees at Kampong Swai

As the academic year winds down there is not a lot I can do other than make observations and plans for next year. A Belgian NGO has given us a reading scheme to implement in some of the schools so I'm also familiarising myself with those materials.

Meetings and workshops are announced at short notice. I was given a letter on Friday inviting me to make a speech on Monday. I didn't realise it was for the Graduation of trainees as that had been scheduled for next week. Sokha and I prepared an introduction and conclusion in Khmer and the rest in English. It was nerve racking sitting on the stage with the Director and Education Officers as it's all very formal. Just before my turn a young trainee sang a beautiful poem. I couldn't understand it but her voice was so lovely that the butterflies started dancing in my stomach. I actually needn't have worried. I brought the house down when I struggled to get my tongue round a khmer word then afterwards trainees wanted me to repeat the words 'good teacher' so they could copy my accent. I guess I got the message across!!!

International Children's Day

2011-06-03T22:35:00.000-07:00

Several weeks ago, the deputy head of our practice school came to ask if I would do something for International Children's Day. As other volunteers were thinking of story telling I suggested I could tell a story. 'In khmer?' he asked and I confidently agreed!!

Sokha prepared a translation of The Very Hungry Caterpillar which I wrote in Roman script and practised but as the time drew near I began to have doubts about a story being suitable for such an exciting occasion. I tried to back out saying I'd do ball games instead but the school was already looking forward to the story.

Wednesday 1^st June, the celebrations were due to start at 8.00. The staffroom was busy with teachers sorting out prizes and final rehearsals for the girls making speeches. Children waited patiently around a wooden platform that had been erected for the occasion. It had big holes in it, a huge health and safety hazard, but it somehow made the day seem special.

At 8.30 we filed out and I found that I was on the top table with the Headmaster and Head Girl. The Headmaster made a speech about the history of International Children's Day and what it means then introduced me to make mine. I had expected this and had prepared a few words in khmer but it didn't seem enough so I continued in English and Sokha translated. People were bemused at first to hear the English but then responded with cheers and applause so all was good. Prizes were given to those children who have performed well and to the needy students, it was one way of ensuring they have exercise books and pencils for the next term. I felt honoured to be asked to present them.

Then the games began. First was musical chairs. I was impressed by the way the majority of children were sat watching and cheering as a small group participated. My story was next and I was handed a microphone. It started well, children listened and could obviously understand as they joined in with the counting and called out the fruit names. Then over excitement kicked in as I was giving children pictures of the fruits to hold and they all wanted one – I was mobbed and had to call on Sokha for crowd control!

Crowd listening to story

Creeping closer

Sokha - Help! (notice that he took the photo first!! )

All was peaceful again and I finished with an activity sorting the children with food pictures into groups, healthy foods and those that are not healthy. This worked really well with the whole crowd joining in yelling 'laor' (good) or 'ot' (not) for each item in the Hungry Caterpillar's diet.

Is too much of this bad for you?

The morning continued like a game show. Groups of children competing whilst the rest looked on, the atmosphere was amazing, full of fun and laughter. I've labelled the photos to let you know about the other games. Once they were over, I took the children for some team races while the staff cleared away the stage, not even one child having fallen down a hole!


Pairs of children burst balloons by squeezing them between their bodies.

This was hilarious. Blindfold, children had to peel a banana and feed it to their partner.

Younger children blew the flour away to get at a hidden sweet.

First to get the sweet was the winner but all got a sweet.

More balloon bursting, this time by blowing it up too much. Ouch!

This is a bit like conkers. An egg in a bag is tied round each child's waist with string. The idea is to swing the bag and hit your opponents egg. first one to break the egg is the winner.

Finally there was dancing. A young girl proudly placed an arrangement of paper flowers on a log in the middle of the 'dance floor'. She turned to me and said – in English – 'My class make this'. I was very surprised, she told me she goes for private lessons.

To finish the morning I was invited for lunch with the staff. Sokha had already gone, it is a national holiday, so the Head said he would take me to the café. I was wearing a skirt so had to go side saddle, like the khmer girls. My helmet again gained a lot of attention for being so big. Few khmers wear a helmet at all, let alone a full face one. Everyone was so friendly that I'm really beginning to feel part of the community.

Starting Work

2011-05-24T04:47:00.000-07:00

I arrived at the college to a sight very familiar from my time in Tanzania. Student teachers were in uniform, lined up in front of the national flag. Socha, my translator, arrived and we went to meet the Director only to be told that she was at a workshop – as were all the tutors. No classes for students today or tomorrow. Ot panya ha (hakuna matata, no problem!) I had an office to sort out. It was filthy so we set about cleaning it – actually Socha did most of the work, he was brilliant.

We took a look round and visited the adjoining practice school where it was playtime. All spare paper was transformed into origami boxes or paper aeroplanes, some to a complex design my Dad used to make. Children were all very friendly and fascinated by my nose!

College hours are 7.00 – 11.00 then 2.00 – 5.00. A long lunch break but it was too hot to do anything more than buy a few things at the market and rest at home. My house is only a few minutes walk from my workplace.

Greeting me in the afternoon was another familiar sight – students with brooms sweeping the college. A couple of young men were sent to fetch the VSO computer for my office where Socha enjoyed setting it up. At first it did not work, the multi socket broken and the UPS too. After a trip to the stationery shop I was ready for action.

I have spent the past couple of weeks seeing how things work at the college. Nearing the end of the academic year is not a good time for me to be doing any meaningful work but it gives me time to get to know people, assess the situation and make plans. The college itself is a nice building but neglected. Classrooms are generally light and airy with birds passing through but there are no fans so it can get very hot. There is a library with a fair selection of education and children's books and I have a small adjoining office. The computer room has only 6 computers, students were disappointed today as their lesson was cancelled – no electricity. A music room full of electronic pianos is a source of pride. Outside my office is a pile of 18 more keyboards donated for use in schools. I don't know how long they have been there but the problem is that schools have no electricity in their classrooms. An example of donors not doing their homework!

At the moment, first year students are out on Teaching Practice in four local schools. Visiting them I got a taste of the problems facing teachers here. Some classrooms are wooden, others brick but all are hot, dark and dusty. I was pleasantly surprised to see that class sizes are around 40, some much less, but am told that they are higher in rural areas. Head teachers were keen to point out the flood marks on classroom walls and relate tales of fishermen casting their nets in the flooded playground during last years devastating rains. Teaching resources are few and far between although one school has a lovely library.

Cambodia has many bank holidays so I haven't done a full week yet, It's still hard to imagine how I will make an impact with limited language skills and a part time translator but I'm looking forward to finding out how it works.

Library on stilts

Inside the library

Pleeung - khmer for rain

2011-04-27T01:37:00.000-07:00

This evening it rained – real rain!!! It was amazing, thunder and lightning too. I sat at the front of my house watching the lane become a river – much as it used to in Vikindu. I was fascinated by the activity. Children splashed around and raced up and down throwing cups of water at one another. People came out with brooms to sweep their yards, one man washed his motorbike and another his car. A lady opposite washed her pots and pans and Joe's Mum rinsed her hair. Joe is Mary's translator and lives in our lane. I love his Mum as she understands my khmer. There were many people watching me, watching them so I managed to explain to her that when it rains, British people stay inside and that our children generally don't play in the rain as it's cold. She enjoyed relaying this to everyone else. In an attempt to get photographs I ventured out for a paddle and she rushed to get me an umbrella, I think the entertainment ran both ways!

Joe's Mum

This is a very happy street and it will probably be much cleaner in the morning. I feel lucky to have such lovely neighbours.

The Palace within

2011-04-25T21:24:00.000-07:00

VSO booked a taxi to take me from Phnom Penh to Sisophon. There were two other passengers who were quite shy of travelling with a foreigner so the first part of the journey was very quiet but I enjoyed seeing how many words I could recognise on the radio news. The ice was broken after a toilet stop and the 3 men disappeared into the bushes. On their return there was some agitation – I gathered that the guy in the back with me could speak some English but was too shy. The driver finally said to me 'Urinal?' I was able to explain in khmer that I hadn't had much to drink and would be ok til lunch time.

We stopped for lunch in Battembang, the destination of the other passengers. At a local cafe I was the centre of attention, everyone wanting to know where I am from, what I'm doing etc. I took out my khmer book to help me with vocabulary and people were fascinated that I could read words that look to them like English yet were khmer! We use a romanised script instead of the Cambodian alphabet. My taxi driver wanted to find more passengers so I had a long time to practice my language skills. A lady selling bread adopted me as a friend and gave me snacks of sticky rice with mango (I think!) wrapped in banana leaf. Eventually, with 2 more passengers, we set off for the last leg of the journey. On reaching Sisophon, I impressed myself by being able to direct the driver right to my front door!!

And so I arrived...

Not a palace exactly, but better I'm sure than you imagined. Downstairs is the living room, a study and the kitchen. I was really pleased when I saw it. There was no sink in the kitchen when I looked round but the landlord kindly agreed to have one fitted. He also provided two gas rings, a fridge, beds, a wardrobe and a desk in addition to the furniture which includes a large Cambodian bed where families either sit to drink tea or lie down to sleep.

Upstairs there are 2 bedrooms with proper beds and a toilet/shower room. Another education volunteer, Mary, is going to come and live with me until December. For various reasons, she has been living in a guest house til now. It will be nice to have someone to share thoughts and ideas with – good company in the evenings too.

A Cambodian family with a house like this will often use the front room as a shop or cafe, living at the back.

My first job was to do some cleaning. I tried in vain to find some rubber gloves at the market but Mary was ahead of me and had already bought some. On opening the packet I found that the rubber had perished in the Cambodian heat so that put an end to all thoughts of protecting my hands!

So... I'm very happy to have arrived and am looking forward to my first day at the College tomorrow

A Weekend to Remember

2011-04-12T00:01:00.000-07:00

To encourage us to practice our khmer, VSO organised for volunteers to spend a night in a village with Cambodian families. Armed with mosquito nets, insect repellent and toilet rolls we set off in a mini bus. First stop was at the commune headquarters where we were greeted by the village leaders and asked to introduce ourselves - in khmai! First hurdle cleared ok, we then piled into a truck to be taken to our families.
This is the house where I stayed. Downstairs the room has a mud floor and is used for storing rice, bikes etc. Chickens, ducks and dogs wander freely through. Upstairs was a large room with a wooden floor and a TV in one corner. The whole family sleeps here on mats. As a guest, I was given a mattress which made my night more comfortable than some other volunteers!

Cooking and bathing are done out the back. I watched as the children drew saucepans of water from these urns and soaped themselves down. I was not asked to bathe out there with the cows and pigs, but invited to use a washroom in the house next door - what a relief! I still used a saucepan but at least it was behind a closed door.

These are my hosts with 2 of their 8 children, Lin and Tumnow. They were really kind and made an effort to speak slowly so that, with the aid of my notes and a dictionary, we managed to find out quite a lot about one another. Chith, the father, was a farmer and speaks some french which helped occasionally.

Food was cooked out the back in a wok on a charcoal burner - nice food but rice with everything. We ate at a table in front of the house with a spoon and fork. The spoon is used to put the food in your mouth. I'm also becoming quite adept with chopsticks!

Chith also very proudly showed us his sugar palm trees which was really interesting. If you look carefully you can see a man up the tree harvesting the sugary juice from the flowers. Rickety bamboo ladders are placed in the trees for access - unlike the way Tanzanians clamber up. Bamboo containers are used to transport the sugar which has many uses. I was given a taste but found it too sweet to drink.

More about Sugar Palm Tree

Bamboo Ladder

Containers made from bambo

So, a wonderful cultural experience that gave me some confidence in my language skills. They are still very basic but those who know how worried I was about it before I left UK will appreciate how happy I am to be getting off to a good start.

Out and About

2011-04-11T05:43:00.000-07:00

Floating homes

Whilst still working hard to learn the language I am also exploring as much as I can. I've taken a boat trip to a river island, visited Wats and attended a local ceremony where young people performed traditional dance. I think the best way to give you a taste of all this is to post photos so I hope you enjoy. The Mekong boat trip took us past a variety of floating homes. Some are very basic whilst others are well furnished with TV. One family even keeps pigs.

On the island there is no electricity and homes are very basic as you can see. Water is pumped from the river. During the dry season this river does not flow very fast and is not very clean - to put it mildly!!

Farming is done by hand or using oxen. The main produce is tobacco and the fields went on as far as the eye could see. Women and children strip the leaves and prepare them for drying.

When the work is done, the families enjoy sitting together on a Cambodian bed to drink tea - or maybe the occasional rice wine!

A local NGO, run by monks to help disadvantaged youth, was having an opening ceremony for a new room and we were invited to attend. It was a lovely evening of traditional music dance and food.

Sisophon

2011-03-28T00:55:00.000-07:00

At the end of a long bus journey I have to admit that my first impression of Sisophon town was not good. It's hot, dusty and very busy with many motorbikes and carts but after exploring for a few days and meeting people I am already beginning to like the place.

Provincial Teacher Training College

A large market at the centre of the town sells everything I could possibly need - and much more that I would not want! The Teacher Training College is close to the centre and I've found a house just round the corner. From the front it looks like a garage but inside it has a character of it's own. As yet it's not furnished but should be ready by the time I return from Khmer part 2. My neighbours are very friendly so I think I will be happy there.

Interviewing candidates for the job as my translator was quite stressful as the job meant so much to the interviewees. It was hard knowing I would disappoint four of them. Socha, my new VA (Volunteer Assistant) is a lovely young man who will take me out to schools and workshops on his motorbike and translate for me.

Arithmetic

Pre School class

Much of my work will be in a group of schools used by the college for teaching practice. I visited two of these and was impressed by the lovely atmosphere. On the photo you see a young girl concentrating on her sums using drinking straws for counting. I asked what other maths resources they had. The headteacher looked confused for a moment than said 'Oh yes! Stones'. I'm really looking forward to beginning work here but know that I have to work hard on learning the language to do a good job.


P'teah knyum - My house

So now it's back to Kampong Cham and more Khmer lessons. The language is not as hard as I imagined. There are no tenses and no plurals, the difficult thing is learning the vocabulary and getting your tongue round the seemingly unpronounceable words. Sentences are like tongue twisters.

Language Training

2011-03-17T05:55:00.000-07:00

Last Sunday our group of seven travelled to Kampong Cham for Khmer lessons. We are based in a hotel by the Mekong River. Most local people live off the land or fish in the river but the town is bustling with shops and restaurants.

After 4 days my khmai vocabulary is over 100 words. Dara, the teacher is very good but moves fast and gives lots of homework! We get some practice in the university cafe where the menu is in Khmer script and the staff speak no english.

Lessons are in the morning and afternoons are too hot to do much other than rest and study. Evenings are cooler and an ideal time to explore the town. One evening we cycled across a bamboo bridge to a river island. Each year this bridge is washed away by floods and subsequently rebuilt. My heart was pounding when I reached the other side as it's a narrow bridge with no sides and 2 way traffic. The bamboo is soft and noisy as you pedal across.

Next week will be exciting as I travel to Banteay Meanchey to meet my work colleagues, find a house and appoint a translator.

More to follow....

First Impressions

2011-03-06T15:10:00.000-08:00

Cyclo - the way to travel!

Welcome to my first blog from Cambodia. My first impression was of crazy roads full of motorbikes and their adaptations. Cars and bikes travelled the wrong way up the dual carriageway, I'm glad I wont be driving here!

I am staying in a room at VSO office in Phnom Penh and it's lovely to be together with other volunteers. In Country training began on Friday, we'll be here in the city for a week before moving to another destination for language training.

Our first real view of Phnom Penh was on Saturday with an exciting tour of Phnom Penh on cyclos. These are tricycles with a large seat at the front for a passenger. Attractions included the Royal Palace by Tonle Sap River, markets, pagodas and other monuments. The cyclo drivers really knew what they were doing as they negotiated the busy roads, weaving in and out of other cyclists and motorbikes.

Feeling a little more confident of our surroundings, three of us set out today in search of surge protectors for our laptops. Electricity supply is good but there have already been two cuts today – not for long though. My Khmer is limited at the moment to greetings so it's quite frustrating but enough to gain smiles and to interact a little with locals. We easily found what we were looking for at a market, there's not much that cannot be bought in the city. It will be a different story when I reach my workplace in a much more rural area. Sights along the way were very interesting such as a small boy cooking fish on a small fire on the pavement. Colourful stalls of exotic fruit and vegetables line the streets. One lady offered to let us taste the fruits before buying which was really kind but to her advantage in the end when we made our purchases. Chicken is often sold live as is much of the fish, wriggling to escape the basket.

At this stage I feel a bit more like a tourist than a volunteer, wandering around with a group exploring the city and eating at nice restaurants. It is important though, to learn as much as we can about the country in order to understand the needs of those we will be working with. It's fun too.

This little boy is cooking fish for the family on a fire in a hole in the pavement

The Royal Palace , Phnom Penh

One Week To Go

2011-02-23T16:50:00.000-08:00

So, after a few teething problems, such as a link to the Vermont Symphony Orchestra (VSO.org!), I've managed to set up my new blog. You can Follow the blog or Subscribe by clicking the links.

On 2nd March I fly to Cambodia to begin a 2 year placement training primary school teachers. I will be based in Banteay Meanchey province in the north west of the country. The job involves implementing the Ministry of Education's Child Friendly Schools initiative. I will be based in the Teacher Training College and practice schools supporting child-centred methodology and inclusion.

This last week will be very busy; in addition to my final jabs and all the packing, it's Mum's 80th birthday and my first grandchild is about to put in an appearance, hopefully before I fly. Today I was informed that the flight is 10 hours earlier than expected and the baggage allowance is only 20kg!!! My case is empty - the pile next to it huge - only minor panic has set in!

The thought of experiencing another new culture is really exciting but I'm nervous about learning Khmer. There will be some intensive language training when I arrive and I've been practising already so hopefully I'll pick it up.

Yesterday I met with members of Soroptimist International Birmingham Club who are supporting my placement through their on-going link with VSO. Thank you ladies for all your good wishes.

Mike, proud father ♥

A taste of Spring to take with me.